Running from Mexico to Canada through California, Oregon and Washington, the 2665 mile PCT meanders from the SoCal desert to the Alpine Mountains in Yosemite to the rainy forests in the North Cascades. We're attempting to thru-hike the PCT during the small window of time that the entire trail is typically passable from May-October. Though a seemingly huge undertaking and perhaps a bit out of the ordinary, it's just walking after all.
Tuesday, July 31, 2012
We were welcomed to Belden with a wildfire just north of town. Sounds of helicopters and chainsaws surrounded us as we descended down the mountain, but we're currently safe and eating yet another cheeseburger. Unfortunately, the next section of the PCT is closed so we'll have to take a detour around the halfway point of the trail.
Friday, July 27, 2012
We made it to the Red Moose Inn in Sierra City and the sign says it all. The city is only about 2 blocks long and consists of a store, 3 restaurants, a couple of hotels, and 3 bars. Upon arriving at the Inn we were told by Margaret that our jobs were to rest, eat, and drink beer. There are about a dozen hikers here and half of them planned on leaving a couple days ago. Apparently one of the bars has ladies night almost every night and they are yet to catch one so ladies if you want to drink for free come to Sierra City and drink free for eternity. This place is a vortex that is only made more powerful by the fact that the trail immediately ascends 3000 feet. We are leaving today mark my words. We just want to eat one more Gut Buster first.
Our first Sierra thunderstorms came early this week. We have been walking for almost 3 months with only blue skies and then we woke up to lightning,thunder, rain, and last but not least hail. We were hailed on 4 times that day. As Brittany, I will not say her trail name here as it is not family friendly, said you have to have these kind of days to be grateful for the beautiful ones.
We made it over Donner Pass without resorting to cannibalism but we made friends with a few other hikers just in case we had to eat anyone. The main thing that kept us going the 100 miles from Tahoe to Sierra City was this 1lb burger "The Gut Buster." Turtle took down this bad boy and then ate a bag of chips and then a pint of Ben and Jerry's. I was so proud.
Friday, July 20, 2012
The ultimate Hiker Trash Vacation. We have made it to South Lake Tahoe the home of the all you can eat casino buffet, a halfway decent bus system, and a gorgeous crystal clear lake surrounded by ski worthy mountains. What more could two town food starved weary hikers ask for? As my father figured out we were able to eat at the Harrah's buffet for only 6 dollars per hour ($2 per pound of food)which seems like a great deal to me and now we are just wandering around town waiting on the next buffet to start. We currently have 15 minutes and then we get to dine for 7 hours for only $12 which is less than $2 an hour. That seems unbeatable. Now if we can just learn to count cards.
Thursday, July 19, 2012
One thousand miles. One does not truly understand the magnitude of this.distance until you attempt to travel it on foot. I can remember watching this number pass several times on my car's odometer and never throwing a party or reminiscing over the time that had passed but when you see 1000 pass by and you are traveling on 30+ year old legs you take notice. We hit this mark a few days ago after passing through the wilderness of Yosemite. After sitting on our couch in Austin looking at maps and thinking about what it would be like to walk 1000 miles I have to say I was nowhere close to understanding. My eyes have seen sights that I did not realize existed and for that we wake up daily with feet that are numb. Sounds like a fair price to me. We still have an extremely long way to go. The current number stands at 1647 miles to Canada a daunting number when stared at head on, but when you
place that number in front of two of the more stubborn or if we use politically correct terms, determined individuals it becomes a number that can be reached.
It will not be reached today though as this message is being written from the dorm room above the Northern Kennedy Meadows Resort and pack station below Sonora Pass. This is an interesting location where the worlds of cowboys, "city folk", and hikers collide. We were waiting on a supply package that would never come as the nearest Post Office is 57 miles away on winding mountain roads. We were able to resupply at the store, but our feet won't hit the trail until tomorrow morning. From here we head to Tahoe, but tonight we get to sit back eat a hearty family meal and rejoice in the fact that we just walked 5,280,000 feet in about two and a half months. Can you say chili cheeseburger please?
place that number in front of two of the more stubborn or if we use politically correct terms, determined individuals it becomes a number that can be reached.
It will not be reached today though as this message is being written from the dorm room above the Northern Kennedy Meadows Resort and pack station below Sonora Pass. This is an interesting location where the worlds of cowboys, "city folk", and hikers collide. We were waiting on a supply package that would never come as the nearest Post Office is 57 miles away on winding mountain roads. We were able to resupply at the store, but our feet won't hit the trail until tomorrow morning. From here we head to Tahoe, but tonight we get to sit back eat a hearty family meal and rejoice in the fact that we just walked 5,280,000 feet in about two and a half months. Can you say chili cheeseburger please?
Have you ever been watched by a bear while eating dinner? I had never had that experience either and while we are on the subject, it seems the appropriate time to say that it is quite unfair for nature to let the forces of mosquitoes and bears collide. At one point the mosquitoes were so bad that I considered dousing myself with cooking fuel and lighting myself on fire like a monk not to protest for peace but in hopes watching a few of the sons of bitches that had been living off my blood for days catch fire and go down in smoke. When that is happening the one place you want to eat is in your tent. This method of protection is not recommended in bear country though as this will invariably leave the smell of food on all your belongings and will apparently turn a bear into your own personal lap dog before he eats you.
Taking all of this into consideration Kristi and I decided to eat dinner outside and battle the mosquitoes in hand to hand combat. Just as we were finishing our meal I looked 50 feet behind us at the cliff pictured above and noticed a 400lb bear watching as I packed up our trash. He licked his lips and and turned around. Whether he was coming to visit or going wandering for another meal, we had no idea so I stayed awake with a sharpened pencil in one hand and a leatherman micra (blade length 1 inch) in the other awaiting combat. He must have sensed that his doom was near because he never resurfaced near our campsite. Just another night in the Yosemite Wilderness.
Taking all of this into consideration Kristi and I decided to eat dinner outside and battle the mosquitoes in hand to hand combat. Just as we were finishing our meal I looked 50 feet behind us at the cliff pictured above and noticed a 400lb bear watching as I packed up our trash. He licked his lips and and turned around. Whether he was coming to visit or going wandering for another meal, we had no idea so I stayed awake with a sharpened pencil in one hand and a leatherman micra (blade length 1 inch) in the other awaiting combat. He must have sensed that his doom was near because he never resurfaced near our campsite. Just another night in the Yosemite Wilderness.
The view before Sonora Pass.
Someone told us that all of the jaw dropping sights were over after Mammoth Lakes. They apparently had not hiked here. This was by far one of the most beautiful views of our trip. The landscape changed dramatically from granite mountains to volcanic monuments. We learned soon after that these views come with a price as we hiked the next four miles which the guidebook states consists of constant lethal drops to the valley below. If that is not enough the trail was constructed almost entirely of rock slides and volcanic scree. If you would like to experience either of these wonders of nature, I suggest you go out and buy a slip n' slide and a barrel of marbles. Next lay the slip n' slide down a flight a stairs and douse it in olive oil. Now all you have to do is get a friend to pour the marbles down the stairs while you try to either climb or descend the stairs. It's loads fun either way
. Use your imagination to picture a fall of a few thousand feet below and you will have all the fun of the PCT in your own home...ths view really was pretty though.
Someone told us that all of the jaw dropping sights were over after Mammoth Lakes. They apparently had not hiked here. This was by far one of the most beautiful views of our trip. The landscape changed dramatically from granite mountains to volcanic monuments. We learned soon after that these views come with a price as we hiked the next four miles which the guidebook states consists of constant lethal drops to the valley below. If that is not enough the trail was constructed almost entirely of rock slides and volcanic scree. If you would like to experience either of these wonders of nature, I suggest you go out and buy a slip n' slide and a barrel of marbles. Next lay the slip n' slide down a flight a stairs and douse it in olive oil. Now all you have to do is get a friend to pour the marbles down the stairs while you try to either climb or descend the stairs. It's loads fun either way
. Use your imagination to picture a fall of a few thousand feet below and you will have all the fun of the PCT in your own home...ths view really was pretty though.
Saturday, July 7, 2012
The view from the trail after Tully Hole.
We are headed back to the woods today. I believe that the plan is to eat a huge lunch and the ride back to the trail. I believe this time we will be gone for 7-8 days as we head to Tuolomne and the Northern Kennedy Meadows. We have to start picking up the pace a bit as we are now almost a week behind after our new Sierra schedule so we both just sent home more gear to hopefully lighten our packs to pick up the speed.
This time out we actually fit all of our food into our bear vaults, of course we only have to take 3 days food before our next resupply, but I still claim that is progress. Thanks for reading we will talk to you all again soon.
We are headed back to the woods today. I believe that the plan is to eat a huge lunch and the ride back to the trail. I believe this time we will be gone for 7-8 days as we head to Tuolomne and the Northern Kennedy Meadows. We have to start picking up the pace a bit as we are now almost a week behind after our new Sierra schedule so we both just sent home more gear to hopefully lighten our packs to pick up the speed.
This time out we actually fit all of our food into our bear vaults, of course we only have to take 3 days food before our next resupply, but I still claim that is progress. Thanks for reading we will talk to you all again soon.
If your backpack needs modifications, I am your man. The only tools that I need are duct tape and parachute cord. Despite regularly eating sides of beef in town I have lost so much weight that my pack no longer fit so I had to cut a sleeping pad into pieces and then tape and strap said pad to my waist belt so that I could make it through the mountains. I am especially proud of this piece of work and it will be auctioned off along with the 3 pairs of socks that I wore for the first 900 miles of our trip to support the Drew Foundation a wonderful organization that helps Drew travel the world and experience the wilderness. For more information about these amazing souvenirs from our adventure or the charity please contact me directly.
While hiking a friend of ours, Navi, severely sprained her ankle and had to find a way off the trail which is no easy task in the Sierras as there are no roads so we hiked to Muir Ranch to look for help which is where we met Patt who is now my idol as she has been working at the ranch since the 80s. We became friends but not close enough friends that she would give me a piece of Mile High Chocolate Cake.
Going to this fully functioning horse ranch was like going back in time. All of their guests either have to hike in or rent a horse. There are no vehicles allowed as there are no roads. This is still a major resupply point for PCT and JMT hikers. You can mail yourself a package here, but it must be in a 5 gallon bucket as all packages are brought to the ranch via mule train through many river crossings.
Going to this fully functioning horse ranch was like going back in time. All of their guests either have to hike in or rent a horse. There are no vehicles allowed as there are no roads. This is still a major resupply point for PCT and JMT hikers. You can mail yourself a package here, but it must be in a 5 gallon bucket as all packages are brought to the ranch via mule train through many river crossings.
This picture shows the exact reason why we decided to go slow through the Sierras. When we left our camp the morning of this picture we had the best intentions of hiking 15-18 miles but as soon as we crossed Silver Pass, I saw this lake,Big Chief Lake, and had to stop here. Not only did we have this view and this entire lake to oursleves but there was a pond thay this lake drained into that was teaming with trout. At dusk when the mosquitos hatched there were trout jumping everywhere. Turtle said it reminded her of Whack a Mole. This is another reason I must come back here with my fly rod next time.
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